Sept. 21, 2009

Waking up to a cloudy morning, I keep convincing myself that it is earlier than it probably is. A night of crappy dreams has me in a sour mood. Rain is falling on the tent. The fight to get out of my bag seems futile against such odds. Then I remind myself that I'm in Iceland. Cheese and toasted bread for breakfast. Pack up the tent. The rain has stopped, and a rainbow again marks the start of the day. I have a 2L bottle of carbonated water that has no chance of fitting in my pack, yet I do not want to waste it. So I chug it before I head downtown. Running to a gas station every 10 minutes to piss, I make pretty good time. The tourist info center doesn't provide much help about how to find a used bicycle, but I am at least able to pick up some maps. Down to the library to use the internet. Get some things accomplished. Learn of a possible purveyor of used bikes. Stop outside the Leif Eriksson statue for a cheese and toasted bread lunch. Head to the Bonus supermarket("cheapest" prices in town). It takes forever to find. I come across a bike shop. "Any used bikes?" The guy laughs, walks in back, returns with an old Mongoose steel frame junker. Apparently someone just left it there about a year ago. Asking 15.000 kr!? That may be a deal here, I just don't know, but for something I´d expect to pay about 20 bucks for, I delay the purchase until tomorrow. I'll see if I can talk them down to 10.000. The suckers won't know what hit 'em. I finally find the damned Bonus store. I pick up a carton of something and ask the lady next to me if its milk. She laughs and points me to the real McCoy. I replace the treacherous imposter and also pick up some Müsli and a can of beans. Returning to the hostel, I do not feel like paying 1000 kr. just to set up camp on another patch of grass. I offer to do some work around the place in exchange for the use of patch of grass. They laugh, push the request up the chain of command and ultimately say no. 1000 kr. it is. Bastards... The Reykjavik International Film Festival is currently going on, and i see that Stingray Sam is playing tonight at 8:40. I missed seeing that in Bethlehem, so I figured I'd walk downtown and catch it. I set up camp, lay down sleeping bag, open my eyes, and the next thing I know it´s 9:20. Sorry Mr. McCabee, no offense, I think... Tomorrow, buy that bike and hopefully ride out to Mt. Esja.

Sept. 20, 2009

Hopping aboard the flight, sat next to a nice couple from Oslo. Long 5 hour flight, but had free entertainment. Watched Sigur Ros´ Heima, then slept on and off for the rest of the flight. No problems with customs arriving in Keflavik before dawn. 50 km to Reykjavik. Begin walking in the rain as light emerges. A large man in a shuttle bus stops and asks if I need a ride. I say no money. He says the shuttle is free to Reykjavik and looks at me like the idiot I am. Tells me everyone swims in Iceland. A lot. Great... Chilly day heightened by flickering rain. Walking the shoreline, a rainbow spans the harbor. After a few hours´ walk in the Park, I am pretty sleep-deprived, sore, hungry, wet, and chilly. I head to a hostel recommended by the shuttle bus driver, and pay 1000 kr. to camp outside for the night. I quickly fall asleep, and the next thing, it is dark out. Leaving my pack in the tent, I walk downtown. I navigate by street signs that i cannot pronounce/remember for more than 5 seconds. As it was during the day, the streets are empty. I seem to pass someone once every 5 minutes. Arriving on a Sunday gives me the impression that Reykjavik is a ghost town. Finally finding a store that is open, I purchase some cheese and toasted bread, and learn that it is 11:30 pm. I figure that's late enough and begin the hour-or-so walk back to the tent. Chowing down on the items, I lay down in my bag and am at ease. Hungry food is the best food. Most things are damp from the day, but i am plenty warm. I think this far too often, but thank the Badlands deity for synthetic fiber.